From my pack to yours

What’s in my pack

By Ryan - lifelong rider · Updated 2026-07-16

Most of my rides are about two hours. I am almost always riding with other people, and on the rides where I am not, I still end up stopping for someone who is out of luck and out of tools. So I carry a bit more than I strictly need. That is a choice, not an accident, and this is exactly what it looks like.

Two systems, not one

The single most useful thing I can tell you about carrying gear is that I do not have one kit. I have two, and they stack.

The bike is always loaded. A Specialized SWAT storage bag lives in the downtube. I never unpack it and I never think about it. Whatever else happens, that stuff is with me.

The hip pack layers on top for anything at or past the two-hour mark. Water, the repair pouch, a small medical kit.

The reason this matters: the temptation with one big pack is to skip it on short rides, and then the one time you skip it is the time you need it. Keeping the bike permanently stocked means the floor is never zero. I have never once regretted the weight of a tube in a downtube.

Annotated flat-lay of the full kit, numbered 1 to 15. Orange markers show what lives on the bike in the Specialized SWAT bag: the SWAT bag, RideNow TPU tube, Apple AirTag and tire lever with plugs. White markers show what is in the EVOC hip pack: the pack itself, 3L bladder, repair pouch, CO2 with electrical tape, Pro Bike Tool inflator, CR2032 cells, SRAM AXS battery, Crankbrothers M20, mini medical kit, Gerber EXO-MOD Caper and a packable jacket.
Every item, both systems. Orange lives on the bike. White rides in the hip pack.

What lives on the bike, permanently

A Specialized SWAT bag in the downtube, packed once and forgotten. If your frame has in-frame storage, this is the single best use of it:

The hip pack: EVOC Hip Pack Pro 3

Waist pack with a hydration bladder rather than a backpack, and that is a deliberate call. Your back stays cooler, nothing pulls on your shoulders on a long descent, and the weight sits at your hips where it does not move you around on the bike. For a two-hour ride there is no reason to carry anything higher up.

The bladder is the part that changes behavior. When drinking means reaching for a hose instead of unclipping a bottle at speed, you drink more, and dehydration on a hot afternoon ruins more rides than mechanicals do.

Inside the repair pouch

One small zippered pouch holds nearly everything, which is the point. If your kit is loose in a pack you will not find it in a hurry, and hurry is the only time you are ever looking.

The most useful thing in the pack costs about a dollar

Wrapped around the CO2 cartridge is a few feet of electrical tape. It takes up no space at all, because it is riding on something I am already carrying.

It has held a light back onto a bar. It has held a shifter in place well enough to finish a ride. It does the job whenever something has broken in a way that just needs to be held together for another forty minutes. If you take one idea away from this page, make it this one: wrap tape around a cartridge and forget about it until the day it saves you.

The multitool

A Crankbrothers M20. Twenty tools, which sounds like overkill until you notice it is the hex keys and torx that touch every bolt on a modern bike, plus the chain breaker that makes the master link useful. I have never wished for a bigger one on the trail, and I have definitely regretted carrying one the size of a sandwich.

The mini medical kit

A small ziplock bag, and it earns its space:

Mountain bike crashes are abrasion crashes. Build the kit for road rash and for holding a dressing in place, not for paper cuts.

The knife, and the mountain lions

Mounted on the outside of the pack is a Gerber EXO-MOD Caper, a fixed blade. Fixed rather than folding is the whole point: nothing to open one-handed, and the sheath clips straight onto the pack so it is reachable without taking anything off. I ride in Southern California, which is mountain lion country, and I would rather have it and never touch it.

In fairness, it earns its keep in far duller ways: cutting tape, opening packaging, dealing with the fishing line and wire that turns up on trails more often than anyone admits.

And if it ever does come down to a mountain lion, I suppose I fall back on jiu jitsu.

Cold months: the jacket

A packable jacket lives in the outer pocket through the colder half of the year. It weighs almost nothing and it changes a cold, damp descent from genuinely dangerous into merely unpleasant. Mountain weather does not check the forecast before it turns.

The short-ride version

Under about an hour and twenty minutes, I do not take the pack at all. A small multitool goes in the frame bag next to everything that already lives there, a bottle goes on the frame, and that is the whole system.

This is the part people overcomplicate. The bike is already carrying a tube, a plug kit and a CO2, so the short-ride kit is not really a kit. It is just the bike, plus water. Simple and easy is the entire goal.

Why I carry more than I need

Half the things on this page have never fixed one of my bikes. They have fixed other people's.

Ride long enough and you will come across someone at the side of the trail with a flat and no tube, or a snapped chain and no breaker, or a bolt that walked off two miles back. Being the person who can hand over a master link costs you almost nothing and completely changes somebody's afternoon. That is most of the reason my pack looks like this, and it is the part of the sport I would not trade.

The starter shopping list

If you are building from zero, this is the same no-fluff kit I recommend to every new rider - roughly $250-$450 all in:

ItemWhy it’s in the packPrice
Trail helmet Non-negotiable. Modern trail helmets cover more of your head than road lids - get one that fits. $60-150 Shop →
Flat pedals Most new bikes ship with throwaway pedals. Grippy composite flats transform your control for cheap. $40-100 Shop →
Flat-pedal shoes Sticky-rubber MTB shoes lock onto pedals - running shoes slide off mid-descent. $80-130 Shop →
Gloves Grip when sweaty, and your palms hit the ground first every single time. $20-35 Shop →
Mini pump or CO2 Flats happen miles from the car. Carry air, always. $25-50 Shop →
Multitool Bolts loosen on washboard trails. A pocket hex tool saves the ride. $20-45 Shop →
Tubeless plug kit If your bike runs tubeless (most do now), a plug fixes a puncture in 60 seconds. $15-30 Shop →
Knee pads The first protection upgrade once jumps enter the picture - knees hit first and heal slowest. $50-100 Shop →
Full-face or convertible helmet Park laps and real send deserve chin protection. Convertibles climb open, descend closed. $150-350 Shop →
Goggles At park speed, glasses stop working - goggles keep roost and dust out of the equation. $40-80 Shop →
Second charger One lives at home, one lives in the car. Dead-battery math ruins more e-MTB days than flats do. $80-150 Shop →
Torque wrench Motor mounts and e-bike pivot hardware have torque specs that matter - guessing gets expensive. $30-70 Shop →

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Common questions

What should I carry on a mountain bike ride?

At minimum: a way to fix a flat (plugs, a spare tube, a lever and CO2 or a pump), a multitool with a chain breaker, a quick link, and water. Add a small first-aid kit for anything longer or further from the car. Everything past that is comfort, and comfort is fine as long as you know that is what it is.

Do I need a hydration pack or are bottles enough?

Under about an hour, a bottle on the frame is plenty and keeps your back cool. Around the two-hour mark a bladder starts winning, because you drink more when drinking is easy. Heat moves that line a lot closer.

What tools do I actually need on the trail?

A multitool with 4, 5 and 6mm hex keys, T25 torx and a chain breaker covers almost every trailside fix. The two failures that actually end rides are a flat you cannot fix and a broken chain, so carry plugs, a tube and a quick link before you carry anything else.

Why carry electrical tape on a bike ride?

Because it holds broken things onto other things. A light that will not stay in its mount, a shifter clamp that gave up, a torn grip, a rattling cable. Wrap a few feet around a CO2 cartridge and it costs you no space at all.

What spare batteries should I carry for AXS or electronic shifting?

Two different ones, and that catches people out. The derailleur takes the SRAM AXS battery itself; the controllers - the dropper remote and the shifter pod - take CR2032 coin cells. Both are tiny, so carry both. A dead controller battery is exactly as ride-ruining as a dead derailleur battery and far easier to forget about.

Is an AirTag in your bike worth it?

It is a few dollars and it hides inside a spare tube in the frame, so there is no reason not to. It will not stop a theft. What it does is give you and the police an address, which is more than most stolen bikes ever get.

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